Portugal’s Forgotten Islamic History

During my recent visit to Portugal, I struggled to see any evidence that Muslims had lived in, governed, and expanded the country. This rich history was painted over with several coats and labelled as “medieval”. 

The Spanish and Portuguese called them Moors; they were in fact Muslims from North Africa who crossed over the Mediterranean and settled in Al-Andalusia (Iberian Peninsula). They left us significant elements that we cherish today, including the Al-Hambra and the grand mosques of Cordoba and Seville. They also left things we use every day but don’t recall their origin: medicine, baths, architecture, science, and art. Muslims governed for over 500 years; they built, wrote, irrigated, walled, created knowledge, and ruled until they were expelled in 1249. The Jews were expelled two centuries later. 

Sintra

I started in Sintra, 30km (19 miles) from Lisbon. Sintra has a highly effective and unique micro-climate. Several old palaces dot the landscape, many featured in movies. My own destination: the Moorish Castle, next door to the Pena Palace. Both destinations are part of a UNESCO world heritage site. 

The Palace was crowded with,  according to our guide, 1500 entries every hour. The Moorish Castle, visible from the Palace window, had less than 200. 

The Castle, built almost a 1,000 years before the Palace, has grain silos, water storage tanks, wide walls, secret escape tunnels, and breathtaking views. The only visible sign of Muslim influence was a single fluttering green flag with the name “Sintra” in Arabic. There was little historical context or narrative. Most tourists enjoyed the views and construction of the walls and ramparts while I romanticized in imagining the history.

Algarve

My second stop was in the south. The Algarve is rich in Muslim history, only if you can find it. The clear message is that of Christian dominance. Take the Tavira Castle. The English text in the narrative outside the entrance tells us that it was built by the Moors. But the Portuguese, French, Spanish text use the word “Muselman” which is the translation of the Muslim into those respective languages. A giant statue of King Sancho I (Reigned 1185-1211) domimates the entrance.

With his sword and shield, he symbolizes Christian reconquest over Muslim Andalusia and royal authority over the Moors. A deeper dive into his conquest over Muslims of Silves shows that he had the full support of the Crusaders, on their way across Europe to re-capture Jerusalem. The same Crusaders who left a trail of destruction similar to the Mongols. Dig deeper and realize that Sancho I’s conquest in 1189 only lasted 2 years; the Almohads (Muslims) recaptured Tavira in 1191 giving hope to other Moors in Andalusia. 

Silves

I found one prominent Muslim-named space today: the Praça Al-Mu’tamid in Silves. This Square recognizes a poet and writer who was the third and last ruler of the Muslim dynasty of Seville. The Square includes one of his poems etched near the surface of the water. 

Photos: Galeeb Kachra, July 2025.

Silves also hosts the Silves Castle, also built by Muslims. Its restoration has unearthed advanced town planning, underground water cisterns, and food storage facilities. As I explored the walls and turrets, to find one room dedicated to an art exhibition on religious diversity and tolerance. Surprisingly, or not, of the 25 winning pieces, not one reflected Islam. I left a comment about this absence in the guest book. 

What do I think?

Portuguese explorers like Vasco da Gama set in motion the slave trade.Portuguese rulers whitewashed and Christianized the rich Moorish history that developed over centuries, forcing Muslims to convert or leave. Later, they did the same to the Jews.

I had expected, perhaps naively, to find more Muslim (moorish) history in Portugal. I should have learned more about the flag before I set off on my expedition. The five shields on the flag today, represent the 5 Moorish empires that the Christian government destroyed over 700 years ago. Proud history on a 21st century flag. That would have been an indicator of what I would (not) see. Perhaps you had a different experience in Portugal? Let me know in the comments.